If you’ve ever felt like the walls at Baku are closing in faster than they should, or if you’re consistently missing your braking point at the Monza chicane, your FOV (Field of View) is likely the culprit. In the high-speed world of Formula 1, where decisions are made in milliseconds, having a distorted view of the track is like racing with a blurry visor.
At bestsimracingreviews.com, we’ve spent hundreds of hours in the cockpit of F1 24 to decode the unique way Codemasters and EA Sports handle visual perspective. Unlike hardcore simulators like iRacing, the F1 series uses a specific “step” system that can be confusing for even veteran drivers. This guide will help you translate your physical setup into the perfect in-game settings.
The F1 24 FOV Quirk: It’s All About the “Steps”
In most sims, you input a degree (e.g., 54°). In F1 24, you are given a slider that typically ranges from -20 to +20.
Through rigorous testing on our Logitech G923 test rigs, we’ve found that the default “0” setting in F1 24 is roughly equivalent to a 77° Horizontal FOV. Each “click” or step on the slider represents approximately 1 degree of change.
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To Narrow the View: Move into the negative numbers (e.g., -10).
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To Widen the View: Move into the positive numbers (e.g., +5).
Expert Tip from bestsimracingreviews.com: Most F1 players sit too far back and have their FOV set too wide. This creates a “speed sensation” but kills your ability to judge distance. If you want to be competitive, aim for a negative value that brings the track into focus.
Step-by-Step: How to Calculate Your F1 24 FOV
Before you touch the slider, you need your “Real-World FOV.” Use our base calculator at bestsimracingreviews.com/fov-calcuculator or follow this quick reference for a standard 27-inch monitor:
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Measure Distance: How many centimeters from your eyes to the screen? (e.g., 60cm).
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Determine Target: A 27″ screen at 60cm dictates a mathematical horizontal FOV of roughly 52°.
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The F1 Translation: Since “0” is 77°, and we want 52°, the math is $77 – 52 = 25$.
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The Result: You would set your F1 24 slider to -20 (the maximum limit) and then move your monitor closer or adjust your in-game seat position forward.
Recommended Settings by Setup Type
| Monitor Type | Suggested F1 24 Slider Range | Why? |
| 24″ – 27″ Single | -15 to -20 | You need to minimize the “fisheye” to see the apex clearly. |
| 34″ Ultrawide | -5 to -12 | The extra width allows for a slightly wider FOV while maintaining 1:1 scale. |
| 49″ Super-Ultrawide | 0 to -5 | You have enough “real estate” to keep the FOV near default without distortion. |
| TV (Large Screen) | -10 to -15 | Since TVs are usually further away, a narrower FOV is essential to make the cars look life-sized. |
Beyond FOV: The “Camera Customization” Menu
Adjusting the FOV is only half the battle. To truly feel like Max Verstappen, you need to tweak the Cockpit or TV Pod camera settings:
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Horizontal Offset: If the halo is blocking your view, move this slightly.
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Vertical Offset: Adjust this so the horizon line sits at your eye level.
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Look to Apex: We recommend setting this to 0 for maximum consistency, though some find a small amount (2-4) helps in tight hairpins.
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Camera Shake & Movement: Turn these OFF. At bestsimracingreviews.com, we found that camera shake adds “fake” immersion but makes it impossible to pick out precise braking markers at 200mph.
The “Simracing” Reality Check
“If the car feels slow after you fix your FOV, you’re doing it right. ‘Slow’ means your brain has more time to process the corner. Faster processing equals faster lap times.” — Tony Nguyen
When you change your FOV, you will initially feel like you’ve lost the sensation of speed. Give it 10 laps. Your brain needs to recalibrate its sense of depth. You’ll soon find that you are hitting your marks with much higher frequency and your tire wear will actually improve because you aren’t overdriving the corners.
Ready for the next step? If you’ve dialed in your FOV and you’re still looking for more performance, check out our [F1 24 Force Feedback Settings for Logitech G923] to ensure your wheel is communicating as clearly as your eyes.
My name is David Miller, and I’m a sim racing enthusiast with a passion for realistic driving and smart, affordable setups. I started sim racing years ago with basic gear and a single monitor, and slowly upgraded to better wheels, pedals, and rigs as I learned more about car control, racecraft, and setup tuning.